More Epicness

This weekend, aside from being mostly crowded, was just short of epic. Saturday saw four foot , low tide barrels in the evening with no one out in San Clemente. Sunday was a fun day at the local beach break for some five foot close out barrels with heavy but manageable crowds and 70 degree water. Monday forget it, too noodle armed and it looked packed, stayed home and cooked in the heat, 93 degrees at the beach!


Tuesday morning at Oceanside was on. Five to six foot peaky barrels and nary a crowd in sight. Everyone was surfed out from the weekend or just decided to sleep in. Maybe it was from being used to seeing the masses at the beach all weekend and my expectations had been lowered or perhaps it was the rapture but only about six people made it out for the early morning shift for the O-side breakfast rush.


Tomorrow promises to be a stellar day. Wetsand (do they really surf?) says a new swell is headed in tonight although Surfline (hype machine) says decreasing swell, seeing that Flap-line is usually wrong I am going with Wave Watch, five to six foot combo w-sw for some more glassy peaks!



I have been on a thruster the last three days and now understand how much I hate the damn things, twin fin tomorrow for some free-ride, ebb n' flow style. Got's to keep the chakras in line and the chi in tight focus, I don't need no third fin slowing down my momentum or bringing down my energy...



Shaka-Shaka-bruddah!!!