Saturday, November 10, 2007

Snapper Rocks, Kirra; Paradise Lost

Coolangatta: Snapper Rocks, Kirra and Rainbow Bay.

The Super Bank

Now this place has been a full on dream of mine since I can remember. Scenes of days past, Kirra's long, roping, blue barrels. Firing down the bank, spitting reforming, hucking, spitting reforming, for hundreds of yards. On it's perfect days it has been known for 10-15 second barrel rides as being the norm.

Modern times has not been so nice to Kirra. The constant dredging of the Tweed River and the sand pump at the top of the point has robbed it of it's past glory, but it is supposed to still have it's day on occasion.

Then there is the Superbank. Starting with Snapper Rocks at the top of Rainbow Bay has become one of the most filmed and photographed spots in Australia. A long, perfect, sand bottomed point break is a magical looking place when it is on.

The surf looked epic as I was pulling my board out of my car. As I walked up the point it was amazing to watch the machine like cadence of barrel after barrel, roping it's way down the sand bank.

The wave will run down the line and start to flatten out, then it will hit the next bank and bend to a new angle, creating a very hollow, thick double up that explodes on the sand bar and accelerates down the line to the next bank and repeat. It is amazing to watch when it's on. I think i saw it at about 50% of it's potential but it looked amazing.

As I paddled out the wind shifted and kind of messed it up. It was still good but kind of lumpy and warbly and with the side wind it was hard to make sections not to mention see ahead of you through the spray.

California is not crowded:

It is also unfathomably packed with people. It makes lowers on a summer time south look virtually empty. There were probably three hundred people stretched along the three hundred yard stretch, every skill level represented, on every variety of craft and of questionable sanity. I don't know why or how they do it. Burleigh Heads looked better than Upper Trestles on a good day and there were four guys out. Snapper was marginally better but there were hundreds.

Most people were of the category "can't surf" and were more a hazard than anything else. One girl in front of me panicked as a wave broke in front of her and just froze and got pummeled. I duck dove right under her and she got washed over my back. I came up and shouted at her, "are you f#$%ing crazy"? She was wide eyed with terror and totally out of her element, she was not even the worst offender I saw. There were allot of people wearing Gath helmets and at first I thought it was because it is a powerful break, which it is not but, I soon figured out it was because of all the bodies and boards flying in all directions and the extreme danger you face when paddling out at the circus that is The Super Bank.

I was out for three hours and got three waves. The best being a fluke. I was desperate for a wave and took of on a head high gem with two people behind me. I was going to get one turn in then pull out but as I looked back to turn I heard one of the guys yelp as the other guy cut back into him and they took each other out. Success! I was the last man standing. I almost couldn't believe it. I pumped like hell and beat the first section and got in a couple of decent turns. I was surprised at how fast the wave is. You fly down the line and hit the elbow section and have to hit the gas to get around it. I can imagine when it is hollow it would be a back - door - shack-o-rama. The whole time you are dodging people, fending off shoulder hoppers and trying to see with the wind spray and evening sun in your face.

It is a difficult wave to surf although I think the shifting winds had allot to do with that. As well, you get quite a bit of leg burn after the first fifty yards or so. I think i might start climbing stairs in my spare time to get some endurance into my lower extremities.

It was an extremely beautiful surf spot. The point is lush with restaurants and bars lining the shore. The water was neon blue and clear when the sun was out. It started to rain while I was there and never got cold. There were bait fish swimming about and even though the water was at least six to eight feet deep, you could clearly see the bottom. The water does not smell and there is no trash at all.

Other notable events: finding parking is impossible, paddling til' the arms are numb, interesting birds, clothing is optional on the beach. Highly organized life guards with funny hats.

I can now say I have surfed the Super Bank, will I surf it again we will have to see about that.


The town of Coolangatta is great. Set back in the trees by the point it is a city on the ocean. Small but with lots of hotels, shops and cafe's lining the beach road. This would be a perfect place for me and the wife to go on weekends as I can surf for a couple of hours and she would have plenty to do and see, then a nice lunch after and a pint on the point...

Neener - neener - neener! I surfed the Super Bank and You Didn't!!!

ha

2 comments:

Ken and Marie said...

Great story!
Start searching out those uncrowded spots so i don't have to deal with Super Banks and 300 kooks.
I guess you can compare it to Malibu in terms of popularity. There will be a 100 people at Malibu or Sunset, but if you drive up the coast a bit further, you can find point breaks less crowded.
Maybe with Supper Banks its just ease of use since there are parking lots in the near vicinity, Surfer's Paradise and Waikiki size hotels right around the cove and restaurants overlooking the break.

Just find the spot they consider "sharky" and you'll be getting some barrel rides to yourself...

Nick Vona said...

yeah, the bank was one of those, "now i can say i have done" things... Just to the south is Currumbin and it is a nice little point with few people...

I think this weekend i am heading to The Spit just over by South Straddie... Supposed to be a really good beach break fed by a sand pump...

I heard there was a non fatal shark attack at Byron last week... Going there for christmas week... gulp